On my final Calvin-planned trip, I learned a lot about historical events I did not even know existed. The journey was well worthwhile and piqued further interest in the recent past of the country. I enjoyed being able to serve the foundation Janos and Robi work for by replanting trees. I enjoyed seeing the small community we worked in where everyone knew everyone. The hospitality once again astounded me as we were served delicious, warm pogacsa (biscuits) by a local woman. Although I liked the first two days in Hungary, I wish we could have gotten to Croatia sooner.
When we actually arrived in Croatia on Saturday, Robi told us a little bit about Croatian history. We learned that, before the Reformation, only Catholic churches could be built by the side of the road, so Reformed churches could sometimes be found behind houses for that reason. The ethnographic museum being in a state of disrepair because no one had been given ownership was interesting to me as well. The church wanted the property but couldn’t keep away thieves or do anything with it because they have not been given ownership by the state. As a result, the “museum” is full of dust, cobwebs, and broken glass as many items had been stolen.
The Yugoslav Wars happened from 1991 to 1995. In 1990, the free elections were held. The country wanted independence, but Serbs in the region had contrary wishes leading to the great tension between Croatia and Serbia. The Serbs rebelled in the summer of 1990 and formed the Autonomous Region of the Serb Krajina which was not acknowledged by a single country. At this time, many Croatian civilians moved away from Bosnian and Serbian borders and Serbs moved toward the borders either by choice of by force. Vukovar, a border city, experienced a three month siege through which Serbian forces gained control over on November 18, 1991. Much of the city was left in ruins and most of the population had no choice but to flee the area. Cease-fires sponsored by the UN occurred intermittently, and armed conflict happened minimally until 1995 when Croatia began Operation Storm with the United States’ support. During Operation Storm, Croatians regained most territories lost to Serbians. 90,000 to 350,000 Serbs fled the country as a result of this operation. The Dayton Agreement led to the end of this war but tension still exists between the Serbian and Croatian people.
Many places to which we drove had signs warning people of land mines in fields by the road left over from the war. Many land mines were placed between towns because Serbian, Hungarian, and Croatian villages were mixed together in the region. I found the existence of land mines to be shocking. I cannot imagine living in a place where bullets are being fired, bomb are being released, and land mines are being planted. I have never personally had to live that close to a war, and for that, I am thankful. I am glad we had the opportunity to see Kopacs, which was merely occupied by the Serbians and then to see regions like Vukovar that were annihilated by the Serbians as displayed by destroyed structures (houses, the water tower, etc.) interspersed with houses newly built. To think that this war had ended only 13 years ago is unfathomable to me since I have never had to experience anything like it.
The friendliness and hospitality of the Szentlaszlo Reformed church also astounded me as they showered us with delicious treats. To sing with them in their language was quite an experience. The interaction with Hungarian people in Croatia made me want world peace. I am very much an idealist and would love if everyone could just get along…
This past Thursday, we had a large Thanksgiving meal with part of our group, our professor and his wife, my Dordt friend Rachel, and three Hungarian friends of ours. The food was delicious! Leftovers disappeared pretty quickly.
